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Interview with Certified Sommelier Trần Văn Mẫn

At 63, many would consider retirement and focusing on health, yet Mr. Trần Văn Mẫn continues to immerse himself in the world of wine studies and competitions. His lifelong learning spirit and fearless attitude towards challenges at any age have profoundly impressed the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS). Consequently, he was awarded the Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion scholarship by this esteemed organization. The CMS certification is among the most prestigious and challenging wine certifications globally.

Born in 1961, Mr. Mẫn is a Vietnamese Certified Sommelier currently working at Cafe Sydney, a renowned restaurant in the heart of Sydney, Australia. In addition, he consults for Vietnamese restaurants in Australia. Through sharing his articles, I had the opportunity to converse with Mr. Mẫn. Despite our geographical and generational differences, our shared passion for wine led to long, engaging conversations.

A Challenging Yet Remarkable Youth Journey

Arriving in Australia before completing high school, with no family or financial support, Mr. Mẫn was cared for by a Protestant church. Instead of continuing his studies, he chose to work and send money back home. Starting as a dishwasher in a French restaurant, his hard work and diligence earned him the respect and encouragement of the chef and restaurant owner to pursue vocational training. He enrolled in day classes and worked nights, a challenging yet enriching experience. He proudly recounts his youthful years and his role as assistant manager at Sydney Hilton’s largest nightclub.

As the demand for restaurants in Sydney surged, Mr. Mẫn saw an opportunity and transitioned into the restaurant industry, starting behind the bar, then moving to bar management, and eventually becoming a sommelier.

Pursuing Education to Fulfill a Lifelong Dream

Curious about his intense thirst for knowledge, Mr. Mẫn revealed it stemmed from his inability to continue his education upon arriving in Australia. Now, with the means to do so, he pursues his childhood dream of learning. Balancing work and study, he progressed from vocational training to earning a bachelor’s degree in hospitality management, followed by a master’s in event management. Currently, he dedicates his remaining years to wine studies.

Every day, the 44 minutes on the train are 44 minutes spent studying wine

In late 2019, Mr. Mẫn began studying wine and registered for the CMS exams, encouraged by his mentor Simon Curkovic, Head Sommelier at Cafe Sydney. “I didn’t know how tough the exams were but signed up for both Introductory and Certified Sommelier levels to gauge my knowledge and understand the exam structure. The first time, I only passed the Introductory level. Two years later, feeling confident, I returned and passed the Certified Sommelier in 2023.”

The CMS exam is the toughest and most prestigious in the wine industry, requiring candidates to excel in theory, practical skills, and blind tasting. The four levels of CMS exams have varying pass rates: Introductory Sommelier (80-90%), Certified Sommelier (50-60%), Advanced Sommelier (30-40%), and Master Sommelier (below 10%). Candidates must self-study with provided books and materials, making it more challenging than the WSET exams but more practical for aspiring professional sommeliers.

“The hardest part is learning German wine names because I can’t even pronounce them, let alone remember them, and then there’s the extensive list of American AVAs. For young people, passing might seem normal, but for me, it’s a significant milestone,” he shared.

Despite his busy restaurant job, often returning home at midnight, Mr. Mẫn utilizes every moment to study. His 44-minute train commute across 17 stations is spent reading wine books. Additionally, he studies on his days off.

He showed me his study corner, with walls covered in wine maps and shelves filled with study materials. On the wall, he hung two words, “Motivation” and “Discipline,” to remind himself that motivation can come and go, but discipline remains. Thus, he chose self-discipline, creating a daily study schedule.

Happiness is a Journey, Not the Destination

“When I aimed to become a Certified Sommelier, it was tough but exciting. After achieving it, I felt a sense of emptiness, so I set a new goal: the Advanced Sommelier Certificate.”

“Did the learning process ever discourage you?” I asked.

“Yes, it was difficult and sometimes felt impossible to grasp. Family members suggested I stop, given my age and stable job. Many people pursue further education for better job prospects and higher salaries, but at 63, with just four years until retirement, I know achieving the Advanced Sommelier Certificate is extremely challenging. It may take 3 to 6 attempts, and I might not succeed before retiring, but I’ll keep trying,” he laughed.

Memorable Moments as a Sommelier

“I have two memorable experiences. Once, a customer asked about a wine, and I admitted I didn’t know, so I called a more experienced colleague. The customer later tipped me generously, appreciating my honesty. Another time, a customer was furious, leaving a negative review about my lack of knowledge on Australian wines. It was a lesson in the importance of knowledge and its impact,” he reflected.

Advice for Young Vietnamese Pursuing a Sommelier Career

“I used to see Western women in movies wearing dresses and drinking wine, dreaming that one day, Asian women would experience the same. Now, as society advances, wine has become more integrated into Asian life. I’ve seen significant changes in the wine industry in recent years.

I encourage young people to pursue sommelier careers as it’s still a relatively new field, even globally, but offers great future opportunities and personal growth. Compared to other F&B jobs, sommelier positions offer much better salaries, around 75k-85k AUD annually in Australia, depending on the individual and their skills. Besides, studying to become a sommelier encompasses a vast array of knowledge, not just about wine but all beverages, food, and even cigars. Delving into wine, you’ll find yourself becoming more knowledgeable and refined.”

Even though the profession of a sommelier is relatively new to Vietnamese people, and we lack the advantages of language, culture, and exposure to wine that developed countries have, individuals like Mr. Mẫn are living proof that the competence of Vietnamese people is on par with any other nation, despite the unfavorable conditions.

He is eager to share his materials and experiences with young Vietnamese aspiring sommeliers. “If I can do it, anyone can.” he smiled.

Phuong Maxy