Tiếng ViệtI never imagined that Chinese wines could make their way onto the global stage, let alone in countries often regarded as the “holy grail” of winemaking. Yet Ian Dai—a winemaker of natural wines from China—has achieved what many thought impossible. His story isn’t just about crafting wine; it’s a tale of resilience, unwavering belief, and an inspiring life philosophy. Ian’s wines have crossed borders, even making their way to Australia, a land celebrated for its prestigious wine brands. Notably, one of his wine lines even surpassed wines from other countries with long-established histories to win a Gold award at the Hong Kong Cathay International Wine & Spirits Competition 2024.
Ian’s wines have not only impacted China’s wine industry but also captured the attention of international press and wine publications, earning him a place in global conversations about winemaking.
Earlier this year, I was fortunate to spend a few days with Ian during his first visit to Ho Chi Minh City, rather than piecing together his story from a brief interview. This time allowed me to uncover the mysteries behind this fascinating man and his unconventional journey.
Defying History
Chinese winemaking boasts a history spanning millennia, dating back to the Silk Road era when grape cultivation and winemaking techniques were introduced. However, the modern wine industry in China has only truly flourished in the last few decades, thanks to investments from the government, local entrepreneurs and also international brands like Château Lafite Rothschild, LVMH and Pernod Ricard.
Still, Chinese wines face an uphill battle for global recognition, competing against iconic regions like France, Italy, and Spain. Even domestically, wine consumption accounts for a mere 1–2% compared to the overwhelming dominance of Baijiu at 94%. Amid this landscape, natural wine remains an even rarer niche, often deemed impractical or impossible.
Xiaopu – The Nomad Winery
Ian Dai, with his rebellious spirit, decided to carve his own path. Not hailing from a winemaking family or traditional viticulture training, Ian was initially a promising sommelier. He pursued the WSET Diploma and even enrolled in the Master of Wine program. However, realizing this wasn’t his true calling, he left it all behind to pursue his dream of crafting wine.
In 2017, Ian founded Xiaopu, a brand that embodies his vision and individuality. Embracing the title of a “nomadic winemaker,” Ian collaborates with grape growers across various regions in Ningxia, one of China’s renowned wine-producing areas. From this partnership, he has created over 40 unique wines, including Pet-Nat, white, orange, red, and rosé varieties—all deeply rooted in the principles of natural winemaking, preserving the true essence of the grape and terroir.
A Challenging Journey
Reaching the break-even point for Xiaopu took Ian more than six years—a grueling journey he candidly described as far more challenging than anticipated. During this time, he taught WSET courses to sustain himself financially.
The first few vintages fell short of expectations, forcing Ian to embark upon countless trials and errors. Undeterred, he traveled to Australia and South Africa, gaining hands-on experience and refining his winemaking techniques.
When I asked, “Did you ever think about giving up?” Ian’s response was resolute.
“Never. Perhaps it’s because I’m doing something I’m passionate about and deeply believe in.”
Currently, Ian’s biggest market is mainland China, but he also sells in Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand and Australia. What amazed me even more was how a fledgling winemaker like Ian managed to export his wines to major markets, including top winemaking countries like Australia. With a humble smile, Ian revealed, “The key is finding the right people—those who understand the value of what you’re doing.”
Natural Wine – A Philosophy of “Slow Living”
I admire Ian Dai’s courage in pursuing a path many deemed impossible. “As a sommelier, I had the privilege of tasting some of the world’s finest wines,” Ian shared. “But one day, I felt the urge to create something truly different. That’s when I decided to make natural wine.”
For Ian, Xiaopu is more than just wine; it’s a reflection of his philosophy—to appreciate the present and find joy in simplicity and authenticity. This mindset is evident in his lifestyle: simple t-shirts, shorts, sneakers, and a modest, sincere way of speaking.
Ian further explained how the COVID-19 pandemic prompted many to reevaluate their lives. Rather than chasing superficial luxuries, people began valuing genuine, meaningful experiences. Natural wine, Ian believes, embodies this shift perfectly, preserving the pure essence of the land and its grapes without interference.
“I’m happy with my lifestyle,” Ian said. His story, along with the wines he crafts, inspires me to embrace a slower, more intentional way of living, cherishing life’s simple joys.
Inspiration from the Journey
Ian’s journey made me reflect on my own path and that of others around me. We often give up too easily when results don’t materialize within the first year or two. Ian’s story proves that meaningful work takes time, and with dedication and patience, you will eventually cross paths with the right people.
Don’t fear doing something difficult; fear not having the perseverance to pursue it.
Phuong Maxy – Storyteller
